Trincomalee derives its name from the Tamil words tiru-kona-nralai, meaning mountain sacred to Kones­vara. This famous harbor, one of the largest and best-sheltered in the world, has at various times been the envy of the Danes, Dutch, Portuguese, British, French and Japanese, and during World War II it became a naval base to protect the fleet of the combined Allied powers.

The British explorer Samuel Baker said: “Few things surpass the tropical beauty of this harbor, lying com­pletely land-locked, it forms a glassy lake surrounded by hills covered with the waving foliage of coconut trees and palms of great variety. The white bungalows with their red-tiled roofs, are dotted about along the shore, and two or three men of war are usually resting at their ease in this calm retreat.”

The mere mention of Trincomalee to any Sri Lankan is likely to induce wistful sighs and longing looks as they picture the water, warm and clear, the skies as pink as paradise, and nearby jungles where wild elephants roam.

Parts of Trinco (as Sri Lankans call it) serve as architectural reminders of its colonial history and the ethnic mix gives it a rather dif­ferent character from much of the rest of Sri Lanka.

The most comfortable way to travel to Trinco is to hire a chauffeur-driven car (not so expensive as it sounds) and aim to visit the town as a starting point for a longer trip to the truly stunning, pristine coastline. It is also possible to travel to Trincomalee by train.

Many major hoteliers are now beginning to establish themselves, and the town is waking up, undeterred by its war wounds.